Jesus would have been a biker.

Thurs. Sept.10th 2009
8:00pm, some park on the border of Washington and Idaho.
There is a beautiful river here.
Here is a quick summery of the days after the Ferry.
Said goodbye to all my motorcycle friends and Andrew who was my buddy on the boat.
Then off the Seattle. It was only 70mi, so it took no time whatsoever. Missed the exit for Joel's place, so I went out to the Harley dealer to see if my tire had come in. The Dunlop was a piece of crap. It was not going to make it home. No new tire.
Eastside Harley there who had put on my tires before I left was real excited when I returned. Actually, I had lied and told them i was going to NY, so they were suprised when I rolled in again. The managers of the dealership really got into the trip, and the fact that I'd gone up there on a Buell Blast. They took a video interview, and gave me a T-Shirt. That was cool, becuase I really needed a new shirt. Mine were pretty gross by then....maybe they smelled me and took pity? Ha!
In total though I was super embarrassed to be standing there at the dealer. There were some bad ass bikers there hanging out. And there I was in my Oshkashbigosh of motorcycle gears, sporting 'my first helmet' from HJC, and riding a bike that looked like it had just come from the war, completely shit rigged up with crap. Yup. I was feeling pretty awesome. But I had nothing else to do. So I just hung out with my coffee and shot the shit with the managers for a couple of hours:)
Next day(Saturday?) I rode down to Portland to try and get to the Museum of Stereo Art and Photography. But it was raining BUCKETS and it took me most of the day to get 100mi past the storm. Bummer.
This marked the first interstate riding I'd done the entire trip. It was really fatiguing! I could only go about 30-60min before I had to pull off and rest. Going 70-80mph is a whole nother ball of wax! Most of the trip so far has been sub 60mph.
Stayed at a hostel. Went to the Bluemoon bar for dinner and a beer. Had an awesome Black IPA. I swear it was real. And it was awesome! Looked like you were drinking a guinness, but it was a super bitter and light IPA. I could see why people like beer after drinking that.
Many people suggested Portland to be a cool city to check out. But when I got all packed up...and the bike was checked out, and I was all geared up...and the sun was soo nice, and the weather is just the way I like it, no wind and a little bit chilly.....well, shit to Portland, let's go for a ride! Booahahaha. Motorcycles are way more fun than stuffy old cities!
Tuesday, after getting my new tire on(Pirelli MT75 for those of you who would be interested:), back on the road! East!
Route 2 goes across the entire united states practically, so I took that one. Less thinking. At the best rest area ever(free brownies and coffee) another motorcyclist suggested that I take route 20 over to Glacier as a detour. Haven't been steered wrong by a biker yet so I took the road. Beautiful. Then 97north was closed, but another biker at a gas station had warned me already, so i knew to take 97alt. Apparently a bridge was out....tractor trailer in the river....eh. No idea.
And so it went on like that till arriving at Glacier Nation Park. Pretty roads, no plan, ride till I got tired and finding some place to camp and crash for the night. Food is pretty readily available down here in the lower 48 also, so it's been easy to cook for myself.
I get approached by older dudes a lot. Sometimes couples also. Well, first off, I've only seen two other younger guys(under 40ish) riding around, and that was in Canada. The old dudes are all so excited about the trip! They talk about their bikes they had when they were 'kids'. They talk about the bikes they didn't have for one reason or another:( Many who are retired complain that they waited. How they wish they had done what I was doing when they were younger and stronger and full of energy! Apparently the median age of people who vacation to Alaska, is 65. Whoa.
Oh one last thing. Pulled into this city park one evening because I was exhausted. Turned out to be a real red neck kind of place. My people:) But I came back to my tent to find some literature placed infront of the entrance flap. In bold letters it read: "Jesus would have been a biker." On the inside was filler with analogies between motorcycles and why Jesus died for our sins. I should have kept it, but I didn't want to egg who ever left it on. So I clearly and plainly threw it away. I wanted to get up and out early the next day:)

Is this going to hurt?

Sept.3rd 2009
Got a tour of the engine room today. I'd asked the purser about it yesterday. He was confused. Apparently nobody asks for a tour of the engine. He made me write a letter to the head engineer, and said he'd get back to me. I could not imagine how that was going to happen, and counted the whole thing off as a wash. Figured there was not harm in asking.
Well sure enough three days later, me and two other guys get caller over the loud speaker to come to the purser's desk. I had forgotten about the letter by then and assumed I was in trouble for any number of things:)
There we met the chief engineer and got a tour of the engine room!!! It was so amazing. Same idea as the combustion engines in our cars and motorcycles....only bigger....and with more toys. The other two guys where big tractor head, and the three of them spent the next hour or so throwing around so many terms I'd never even heard before. There is so much to learn in the world!
Anyhoo. Apparently it doesn't hurt to ask. It was a little embarrassing writing the love note with the grumpy purser standing there. In the end. Completely awesome!

My motorcycle and I are on a boat.

Wed. Sept. 2nd 2009
Marine Highway.
I'm riding on a boat with my motorcycle. This boat is filled up with the most incredible people I've ever met.
Dude1. Florida -> Fairbanks via Motorcycle.
Dude2. Kyak Inside Passage. Vancouver -> Homer AK.
Dude3. Drove to Valdeze and worked all summer, construction and bar tending...
A small sampling, but enough to illustrate the point. This has to be the most amazing group of intrepid explorers and idiots I've ever had the pleasure of spending several days with! If you ever get a chance to ride the marine highway, either direction. Do yourself a favor, and DO NOT book a cabin or estate room. There is plenty of room on the deck to pitch a tent, or hang out on the solarium. That's where all the cool kids are going to be.
There seems to be some commonality amongst this band of rebels. It's that nearly nobody is an expert at whatever adventure they set out on. This was the longest trip for nearly all the motorcyclists I met. The Kyak guy had never done anything like this before.(he had some amazing stories!) And right down the line, it was the same tale again and again. People sort of testing the limit of their pleasures and fortitude:)
I don't know. In the cozy bed back at home this journey was madness. Expensive. Dangerous. Irresponsible. On the road, it became hard to imagine anything being more natural to be doing with one's time.
With all the insecurities in this world, wealth, health may come and go with the tides. Health might render us incapable of the simplest tasks. But there is nothing that can rob a soul of these memories. I will hold them as long as I still know myself.
The endless valleys. The nameless mountains. The lakes that go on and on for 20, or 30 miles. The rivers that go god knows where(thank you Robert Service). The sun of mid-day which you are convinced will be there in the sky forever. The darkest hour before every single sundown when a body is the most alone. The endlessly cold nights. The toes that will 'never be warm again'. The fear of breaking down 100+ miles in the middle of nowhere. Surviving the rain. Knowing when to stop and rest. Trying to tell the difference between being brave and stupid.
I just have this idea, this suspicion. I'll wake up, back at home and think, "What the hell just happened? These are things other people do. Not little old me!"
Anyway. For a couple more day, we've all got the dolphins and whales to keep up company. A school of killers wales swam with the ship yesterday. They looked not large as in a zoo. But just the right size out here:)
I can't wait to get back on the bike again!!
Curious to see how it get's on. The only plan is to go east. Hit Nebraska to visit a friend, and maybe to Iowa to visit my sister. Hopefully still be able to get to North Carolina to visit my niece and nephew:)

Wishing you were here.

Sunday, August 30th 2009
9:30pm, Beak Creek Hostel, Haines AK.
The ferry!
Lot's of days to fill in. Best to keep it short.
Decided to take the Marine Highway(the ferry) out of Alaska! Called them up to make the reservation because the web site is complete crap. Sent the same search into the engin three times. It gave me three different interaries ranging from 4 days @ $500 to 30 days @ $2,500.
The lady on the phone was nice. I asked when the next ferry leave from Homer to Bellingham was. She replied, "Let's see...well, there is one leaving in 3 hours....could you make that? Oh your in Fairbanks...you'll probably not make it then. The next ferry is Sep.29th"....
!?!?!
Seriously, apparently it catches lots of people off guard. The ferry from Homer only leaves once a month. Damn. Turns out the ferry from Haines leaves every Monday at 6pm. So I booked a ticket for me and my bike, and rode out of Fairbanks.
Took four days ride to get here. It rained some. Saw some glaciers. Met some of the coolest people so far on the trip. Seems the only motorcyclist left in AK are the hardcore ones(me NOT included!). In Wasilla at the Kawaski Powers ports shop(hate my new tinted but cool looking face shield), I was told about some dude who had just passed through attemping to get to Prudo bay, but was snowed out....
In Tok I met some guy riding for an organization trying to ban the use of cell phones while driving. He was going to Prudo bay....told him about the snow reports. He seemed prepared. Even had an extra tire with him on his awesomely modified KLR650.
Later that day I met the guy who was trying to get to Prudo bay. Mike. Met at border city and rode together for a day. In the pass from Destruction bay to Haines Junction there are a lot of frost heaves. I'd never ridden with anyone before, and despite knowing better, I was leading, and pushed my little blast harder than I should have to 'keep up' with Mike's triumph street triple. Well, I hit one bump really hard at 60+mph, and my back tire rubbed against the tie downs I'd been wrapping around the back seat to hold everything on the bike.....melted right through those puppies. My gerry can fell off, and nearly everything else. It was embarressing and hysterical at the same time:)
As it happened, besides the extra set of tie downs I had in case any of them broke on the road, I had a third awesome ratchet set I'd purchased in Fairbanks for the ferry(You have to bring your own tie downs for the ferry). We had that bike re-outfitted in about 20min. This was the 3rd 'set up' I'd gone through with strapping all my crap on the bike. But it was easily the best, and will probably not change it again.
Haines is beautiful. It was a long stretch sans gas. 160 miles or so. Used the full gerry can of gas. Scary! Rode through this cathedral of a high altitude valley. The clouds hanging around you. Like being in an airplane. Epic to the point of being spiritual. The journal entry was rather sappy, but for friends and family, I'd be more than happy to indulge face to face.
Nice to be staying at a hostel. Even though there was parking down near the proprietor, I rode my bike right up to the cabin. Fuck it.
The ferry leaves at 6pm tomorrow. Will take 5 days and 4 nights...I think. Either that or it's 3 nights and 4 days. Eh. I can't remember. I'll loose some street cred for taking the ferry part of the way out(was 1,200 miles ride from Fairbanks to Haines!), but I'm told it's a 'once in a life time' sort of things. We'll see:)

Whoa. That's big.

August 22-24th 2009
Denali,
my buddy and I went down to Denali this weekend. That's a big mountain. We were blessed with clear skies leaving Fairbanks. We could see the peak from the city. That's 250miles away! That is really far to be seeing something That's twice the distance my childhood home was from NYC. And it wasn't that close to the city.
You can't take your car into the park, so they have buses to take the visitors all around. We attempted to take the bus out to Wonder Lake because the mountain was unusually clear. Perfectly clear, but only made it 60 of the 90miles in before we had to catch the last bus back our campground.
We saw some bears right up close. Freaking grizzlies. Those guys are strong. I watched as the cub causally dipped his paw into the hard packed earth as if it was chocolate pudding. Then he was pulling up roots 1/2inch think and tearing them as if they were cooker spaghetti. OMG. Those things are strong. I'd harbored a secrete disdain for bears through out the trip because of the inconvenience they'd cause me packing and unpacking my life everyday on the bike. Being super careful about food and contaminating anything else with sent. But now. After seeing them that close....I had a healthy amount of fear for the bastards. Pepper spray was not going to save you in an bear attack. Nothing would save you. Tip #6 Stay away from bears.
It was really cold that night. We got back to camp in the dark. Cooking was a pain in the ass. The stoves wouldn't light becase the fuel was frozen....the pasta wouldn't cook because the water couldn't get hot enough...etc. Eventually we went to sleep cold and unsatisfied. Which was fun too:) It was the first real miserable night of the trip so far. Our rapid decent into self pity over undercooked pasta was comical and lightened the mood.
Breakfast went slightly better:)