Spiritual libation, the adventure's end.

Fri. Oct.2nd 2009
7:45 am, back home at Santoroland.
Rode a hard day from Anamosa Iowa. Only needing 1,200 miles to get home allowed me to ride more aggressively.
Had a beautiful tail wind (tues past). Took 64 out of town because the ride was soo nice last Sunday when I took the bike out for the church of two wheels. It was nice to come home that afternoon for a little spiritual libation. The day was sooo perfect, it was impossible to go to church. I figured with all the prayers I say all day long(please god don't let him pull out in front of me...etc) it sort of counts:)
Monday was the new set of tires. Metro Harley out in Cedar Rapids got the job done in record times! I barely had time to get through two or three mags. They only charged me $110 to install and ballence the pair. Pretty good!
Tuesday out the door and on the road by 8:00am. had packed and pre-ride inspected the bike the night before:)
Eventually , hopped on the interstate in Indiana. The moment you cross east of the Mississippi the state roads and county roads are packed with stop lights. It was annoying as hell. Had to ride the interstate if I ever wanted to get home.
Rode till it got dark. Was tired of paying for camping. I only needed to sleep for about 8 hours, why should I pay $20-100 for that?! So I 'camped' behind a fence behind a big Loews. Got to use my 'bike tent'. That was exciting. It's just a tarp I throw over the bike, and sleep under. I definatly plan on doing some more 'free camping' next summer.
Wed. Cold and rainy, all day. When I pulled into the hotel right outside of Binghampton it was 36deg. Awesome. Kept having to warm my hands up on the engine all day. That was a trick I picked up in the Yukon. It was the record cold for riding during the entire trip. Dinner, hot bath, cranked the space heater WAY up(the hotel gave me a discount on the last room they had because it didn't have heat, only the space heater), sleep, breakfast, and on the road again.
Saw a sign, 166mi to NYC. I laughed out loud! What was 166mi at this point? Nothing! I ride that much before lunch. Ha! I remember two months ago that seemed an impossibly large distance.
Visited some old friends in my home town where I grew up, then attempted to get into the city before dark(didn't make it:).
NYC was not nearly as deathly scary as I remember leaving it. Was I a better rider now? Probably? That was nearly 11,000 miles ago.
My father fed me, and I told him and my grandmother stories....
Now it's time for some sleep. Currently it's strange. I don't know how I feel. Not sad or happy.
Maybe a bit confused. I'm no more or less comfortable in my cushy apartment with my $$$$ mattress than I was sleeping in a tent with a sleeping bag. I don't have the words exactly yet.
I saw the magnitude of the human spirit. What people were/are capable of. That's not something easily forgotten.
Picture this: You pulled out the measure stick which you use to gauge life, and discovered to your pleasure that I was deeper than you imagined possible?
In truth, the trip wasn't anything that special or amazing. Loads of other folks have made the trip before, in varying degrees of peril, on all sorts of motorcycles.
I'll think some more as I un-pack tomorrow(I don't have many things).
I never expected anything from this trip, except, maybe to see America. I never thought it would change me in any way. Didn't believe myself to be that kind of person.

Some quick stats for those in the know:
Miles: 11,000 give or take.
Oil changes: 3
Tires changes: 2front, 4 rear.
Awesomeness: Epic

Here's a link to a map I whipped up on google: map

Nuckleheads

Sun. Sept.27th 2009
Yesterday I participated in a "Poker Run". Found a flier for it at J&P Cyles which is right here near Anamosa where I've been staying with my sister and brother in law for a few days.
The ride befitted the United Way. It turned out to be a fantastic way to get a tour of the area that my sister and brother now call home.
The riding was beautiful. A little chilly, and threatening to rain at any moment...but it never did. Met some new friends. Initially I had just asked to ride along because I had no idea where any of this crap way, but they soon accepted me into their company. They embarrassed me in front of the entire festival at the end during the awards. The MC gave a shout out for the furthest traveled. "We've got a Texas, but the prize goes to NY". So I'm looking around for the dumb schmuck from NY who just got called out at this crazy event where everybody knows each other.....then I hear: "Anthony raise you had so we can see you..." Man. I can't go anywhere:)
Oh. There is a bar in Anamosa called Knuckleheads. I really wanted to go in there, but never had a chance. I heard there is a burnout right down the middle of the bar. Sounded like my kind of place!

Otumwa.

Tue. Sept.22 2009
Nothing particularly interesting happened today. I rode, was happy, and am now fed and ready for bed. Mostly I wanted to document sleeping in a place called Ottumwa.
It is getting chillier as I move east.....

Kill'n time.

Mon. Sept. 21st 2009
Omaha Nabraska, and my friend Tracy's house.
Road accross Nabraska in one day. 550mi. That's a new record for the trip. Was intending to leave Nabraska today, but had a late night, and subsequently a late start....and then it was raining...:) Eh. Fuck it. It's a vacation / adventure. Sometimes it's good to know when not to force things.
My back is flaring up again.
I've got two new tires waiting/ordered for me in Cedar Rapids Iowa. My sister lives out near there, and I was always planning on getting a new back tire....but upon inspection of the front tire, I decided that it would be good to change that one out also. It had worn down in a funny way, and have several deep gouges in it I had not noticed before! ahh! It did pretty good. 8,500 miles and only 3/4 worn down. wish I could get that out of the back one!
Nabraska is beautiful riding! riding from the west, you come out of the Black hills(which arn't any peticular color), and then into the protected grasslands, which are like a grass desert. After that the gentle hills begin, and the corn starts. Endless corn! By this time of year I'm told it's all feed corn, that sweet corn was harvested several weeks ago:(
Once the road traveled up about 30feet for an overpass. I swear you could see the entire state.
I had perfect cell phone coverage the entire time.
One more day here in Nabraska, I'll play with the kitten some more, and then go shopping for dinner. I love the gentle art of killing time!

Crazy Horse.

Sept. 17th 2009
Quick not about last night's lodging. In the middle of the night....I heard jackles or some sort of wild dogs on the cliff behind my campsite. Awesome I thought.
Then about 10min later, after what sounded like scurrying down the steep hill, I hear something(s) lurking outside my tent. OMG. Man. It was probably the most terrified I'd been the entire trip. A pack of wild fucking dogs, outside my tent. Awesome.
I layed there rather still for about an hour till it stopped, and the sounds retreated into the distance.
In morning, I learned that it was only the crazy wierd deer that are all over the place.
Accidently went to Mnt.Rushmoor today. I'd seen it before, and wasn't impressed then either. Crazy horse on the other hand is...well...crazy. Whoa! Check that thing out if you are in the area. It's a humbling experence to say the least.

Back tracking.

Wed. Sept. 16th 2009
Was on the road y 8am today. That's a personal best! It was incredible to ride like that. From dawn till dusk! Seeing and feeling the ride through the entire day like that is not something I'll soon forget. Very temped to get up early tomorrow and try the same thing.....
But, I might also stay at this KOA for another day and rest. I have an awesome view of the tower from my camp site. I'm not in a rush, I've got some business to do, and it's super nice here.... Can't decide tonight, and i don't really care.
About today. Took 14a. It was a mindblowingly beautiful ride. Across a huge dry vally, then up a gient mountian nearly 6,000 foot climb of steep grade(6%) over Baldmountian(not kidding) down on the most awesome twisties! What views coming down over the other side.
Also, the road was red. Sort of pink...but mostly a deep earthy red. Very strange. But I didn't care too much, as it was smooth and wonderfull to ride on!
Met a Lawer at a gas station who was riding a Harley "Road King". Since he didn't pick on my bike, I took his praise of the RK seriously.
Turns out Buells are manufactured in East Troy, that's sort of on the way home! I want to show them how cool thier bike is, and maybe get a tour of the plant! That would be so cool.
Sleep now. Think tomorrow.

The Beartooth!

Tuesday, Sept.15th 2009
5:45pm, someplace starting with an L Montana.
Beartooth pass beat me up today. Beautiful ride through Yellowstone, even if there were a lot of people. Also tons of elk and bison. Ug.
At this moment, I am the literal manifestation of 'not in a rush'.
After the Beartooth(BT), I stoped at a cafe for food. It had tons of motorcycles out front, so it was the obvious choice of culinary establishments. Ate lone wolf styles, but it was nice to be in like company just the same:) Tried to order the crocodile chicken fingers, but they were out.
After I got back on the bike, it was early yet, only noon or so.
There was several discussions on the road about the best way to get back to NY, if I was not going to go down to Utah and ride the 'once in a life time rides there".
Take 212 east through South Dekota, or take 312 south to catch ALT14.
In the end, I just did what I normally do when in doupt. Follow the bikers. They all went 14a. Problem solved. Anyway. I'm camping for the night. Super tired tonight. Pushed it kind of hard. 12 hours or so of riding. It's early, but it would have been stupid to ride anymore today.

Headwind.

Mon. Sept.14th 2009
9:00pm Eagle Creek National Forrest Campground(just outside yellowstone, which was full)
Road to the Sun. Eh. Too many people for my tastes. It was fun to be riding around with so many other bikers though. I was one of few with a full face helmet, and the only one wearing full protective riding gear. You had to wait all the time because there was tons of construction. But that was alright. I called them micro picnicks! It was an awesome excuse to stop the bike and look around for 5-20min. Don't think everybody else was having as much fun.
A few times other bikers wanted to talk, but I didn't want to take my earplugs out, so we resorted to yelling and hand gestures:)
The ride through Montana was stunning! As beautiful as anything I've seen so far! If you ever have the chance, take 89 south from Glacier to Yellowstone. Big long stretches of nothing. No cops. Huge fun sweepers. It's a dream riding out there.
Had a headwind all day. Actually since leaving Seattle. The buell blast is pretty underpowered for it's class I'm coming to realize. The bike THUMPS under a headwind. For days and days now, if there is a head wind, it's basically guaranteed I'm not riding faster than 60mph.
When I get east, I wonder how I'm going to be able to get on the interstates. The map makes it look like taking county and state routes is going to be a pain(there are soooo many of them!).
Also camping in the wind is a big drag. This evening the wind ramped up to about 40mph. I had to use every tiedown and stake to keep my poor little tent from flying away. Can't imagine what it's going to be like crossing Nabraska and Wyoming! Camping will be tricky:)

Something painful.

Sun. Sept.13th 2009

So there is one thing I hate about traveling. It's something that I've been aware of, and know I'm going to have to deal with every time I leave the house on any sort of adventure.
You make these super quick crazy friendships on the road. People you meet at gas stations, in museums, on trains etc. Fellow travelers, locals...all sorts of folks. Just as quickly as you make a new friend, you are ripped apart forever.
As I was taking advantage of a new campsite here in Glacier yesterday, my friend Ted from last night, who gave me a beer and firewood fired up his bike and roared away. Then I realized he had broken down camp already....that he was leaving...from where I was he would not see my new camp site....of any evidence that I was still there. Sure enough, he gave a glance and headed out of the camp.
It was crazy. Who was this guy? Why should I care? We had swapped stories of riding, drank a beer and sat around a fire. He was a stranger. Yet, as with all my quick friends, it was sad parting. I never thanked him for the wood, or the company, or the drink.
Till the day I die, it will break my heart a little every time I have to say good bye.
Spent the day hiking around glacier. Tomorrow I'll head off into the sunrise!

Come as you are, pay as you go.

Sat. Sept.12th 2009
8:00am @ Glacier National Park.
Super short ride yesterday. 220mi or so...if that:)
Pulled into Glacier Nation Park around 2:30 in the afternoon. My experience at NPs before has taught me to get there early. Most the camp sites go by noon.
Place threw me for a loop! Had a gate, and they charged $35 smackers to get in! To my amusement, motorcycles are only $12. Ha! I win again!
At the moment, I'm hanging around the campgrounds waiting to see if anybody leaves. When I pulled into the camp grounds last night there turned out to be two spots left, and a long line of cars behind me! So I took the first one I saw. Right next to the bath room. Ug.
Glacier is heartstopingly beautiful. I had only intended to camp here and keep on moving....but I can't imagine not spending a few days here! This choice was made at the expense of canceling my own coming home/birthday party. That's how awesome this place it.
Met another motorcyclist last night. Ted. He's riding a Softtail. Told me about another 'Must Ride' road. Beartooth pass...it's on the NE corner of Yellowstone or something. Damnit. I really kind of want to get home. Damn all these bikers and suggesting all these awesome motorcycling roads!
Tomorrow I'm bouncing Glacier via the "Journey to the Sun" road which is supposedly pretty spectacular. Judging by the rest of Glacier I've seen to far, I can't imagine anything less.

Riding sKills.

Sept.11th 2009
Had the closest call of the trip so far today. Was riding down a mountain road, being as alert as usual. A huge lumber truck was coming around a sharp turn in front of me. It passed with it's chain of frustrated drivers in tow, all wishing they could pass. As I approached the turn I suddenly realized I'd misread the speed indication sign way back there just before the truck obscured it from view. I thought it had read 35mph, meaning I could take it comfortably with a fun lean at 45. Well as I was right on top of the turn it turned out that the sign read 15mph! Ahh! I was going 3o miles to fast for what turned out to be a switchback! Fuck me!
I leaned the bike over as far as I could, but still went over into the oncoming lane, and over shoulder. I missed hitting the gravel/guardrail by about 6 inches. Thank god there was no one in the on coming lane!
Anyhoo. Still very much alive:)

Jesus would have been a biker.

Thurs. Sept.10th 2009
8:00pm, some park on the border of Washington and Idaho.
There is a beautiful river here.
Here is a quick summery of the days after the Ferry.
Said goodbye to all my motorcycle friends and Andrew who was my buddy on the boat.
Then off the Seattle. It was only 70mi, so it took no time whatsoever. Missed the exit for Joel's place, so I went out to the Harley dealer to see if my tire had come in. The Dunlop was a piece of crap. It was not going to make it home. No new tire.
Eastside Harley there who had put on my tires before I left was real excited when I returned. Actually, I had lied and told them i was going to NY, so they were suprised when I rolled in again. The managers of the dealership really got into the trip, and the fact that I'd gone up there on a Buell Blast. They took a video interview, and gave me a T-Shirt. That was cool, becuase I really needed a new shirt. Mine were pretty gross by then....maybe they smelled me and took pity? Ha!
In total though I was super embarrassed to be standing there at the dealer. There were some bad ass bikers there hanging out. And there I was in my Oshkashbigosh of motorcycle gears, sporting 'my first helmet' from HJC, and riding a bike that looked like it had just come from the war, completely shit rigged up with crap. Yup. I was feeling pretty awesome. But I had nothing else to do. So I just hung out with my coffee and shot the shit with the managers for a couple of hours:)
Next day(Saturday?) I rode down to Portland to try and get to the Museum of Stereo Art and Photography. But it was raining BUCKETS and it took me most of the day to get 100mi past the storm. Bummer.
This marked the first interstate riding I'd done the entire trip. It was really fatiguing! I could only go about 30-60min before I had to pull off and rest. Going 70-80mph is a whole nother ball of wax! Most of the trip so far has been sub 60mph.
Stayed at a hostel. Went to the Bluemoon bar for dinner and a beer. Had an awesome Black IPA. I swear it was real. And it was awesome! Looked like you were drinking a guinness, but it was a super bitter and light IPA. I could see why people like beer after drinking that.
Many people suggested Portland to be a cool city to check out. But when I got all packed up...and the bike was checked out, and I was all geared up...and the sun was soo nice, and the weather is just the way I like it, no wind and a little bit chilly.....well, shit to Portland, let's go for a ride! Booahahaha. Motorcycles are way more fun than stuffy old cities!
Tuesday, after getting my new tire on(Pirelli MT75 for those of you who would be interested:), back on the road! East!
Route 2 goes across the entire united states practically, so I took that one. Less thinking. At the best rest area ever(free brownies and coffee) another motorcyclist suggested that I take route 20 over to Glacier as a detour. Haven't been steered wrong by a biker yet so I took the road. Beautiful. Then 97north was closed, but another biker at a gas station had warned me already, so i knew to take 97alt. Apparently a bridge was out....tractor trailer in the river....eh. No idea.
And so it went on like that till arriving at Glacier Nation Park. Pretty roads, no plan, ride till I got tired and finding some place to camp and crash for the night. Food is pretty readily available down here in the lower 48 also, so it's been easy to cook for myself.
I get approached by older dudes a lot. Sometimes couples also. Well, first off, I've only seen two other younger guys(under 40ish) riding around, and that was in Canada. The old dudes are all so excited about the trip! They talk about their bikes they had when they were 'kids'. They talk about the bikes they didn't have for one reason or another:( Many who are retired complain that they waited. How they wish they had done what I was doing when they were younger and stronger and full of energy! Apparently the median age of people who vacation to Alaska, is 65. Whoa.
Oh one last thing. Pulled into this city park one evening because I was exhausted. Turned out to be a real red neck kind of place. My people:) But I came back to my tent to find some literature placed infront of the entrance flap. In bold letters it read: "Jesus would have been a biker." On the inside was filler with analogies between motorcycles and why Jesus died for our sins. I should have kept it, but I didn't want to egg who ever left it on. So I clearly and plainly threw it away. I wanted to get up and out early the next day:)

Is this going to hurt?

Sept.3rd 2009
Got a tour of the engine room today. I'd asked the purser about it yesterday. He was confused. Apparently nobody asks for a tour of the engine. He made me write a letter to the head engineer, and said he'd get back to me. I could not imagine how that was going to happen, and counted the whole thing off as a wash. Figured there was not harm in asking.
Well sure enough three days later, me and two other guys get caller over the loud speaker to come to the purser's desk. I had forgotten about the letter by then and assumed I was in trouble for any number of things:)
There we met the chief engineer and got a tour of the engine room!!! It was so amazing. Same idea as the combustion engines in our cars and motorcycles....only bigger....and with more toys. The other two guys where big tractor head, and the three of them spent the next hour or so throwing around so many terms I'd never even heard before. There is so much to learn in the world!
Anyhoo. Apparently it doesn't hurt to ask. It was a little embarrassing writing the love note with the grumpy purser standing there. In the end. Completely awesome!

My motorcycle and I are on a boat.

Wed. Sept. 2nd 2009
Marine Highway.
I'm riding on a boat with my motorcycle. This boat is filled up with the most incredible people I've ever met.
Dude1. Florida -> Fairbanks via Motorcycle.
Dude2. Kyak Inside Passage. Vancouver -> Homer AK.
Dude3. Drove to Valdeze and worked all summer, construction and bar tending...
A small sampling, but enough to illustrate the point. This has to be the most amazing group of intrepid explorers and idiots I've ever had the pleasure of spending several days with! If you ever get a chance to ride the marine highway, either direction. Do yourself a favor, and DO NOT book a cabin or estate room. There is plenty of room on the deck to pitch a tent, or hang out on the solarium. That's where all the cool kids are going to be.
There seems to be some commonality amongst this band of rebels. It's that nearly nobody is an expert at whatever adventure they set out on. This was the longest trip for nearly all the motorcyclists I met. The Kyak guy had never done anything like this before.(he had some amazing stories!) And right down the line, it was the same tale again and again. People sort of testing the limit of their pleasures and fortitude:)
I don't know. In the cozy bed back at home this journey was madness. Expensive. Dangerous. Irresponsible. On the road, it became hard to imagine anything being more natural to be doing with one's time.
With all the insecurities in this world, wealth, health may come and go with the tides. Health might render us incapable of the simplest tasks. But there is nothing that can rob a soul of these memories. I will hold them as long as I still know myself.
The endless valleys. The nameless mountains. The lakes that go on and on for 20, or 30 miles. The rivers that go god knows where(thank you Robert Service). The sun of mid-day which you are convinced will be there in the sky forever. The darkest hour before every single sundown when a body is the most alone. The endlessly cold nights. The toes that will 'never be warm again'. The fear of breaking down 100+ miles in the middle of nowhere. Surviving the rain. Knowing when to stop and rest. Trying to tell the difference between being brave and stupid.
I just have this idea, this suspicion. I'll wake up, back at home and think, "What the hell just happened? These are things other people do. Not little old me!"
Anyway. For a couple more day, we've all got the dolphins and whales to keep up company. A school of killers wales swam with the ship yesterday. They looked not large as in a zoo. But just the right size out here:)
I can't wait to get back on the bike again!!
Curious to see how it get's on. The only plan is to go east. Hit Nebraska to visit a friend, and maybe to Iowa to visit my sister. Hopefully still be able to get to North Carolina to visit my niece and nephew:)

Wishing you were here.

Sunday, August 30th 2009
9:30pm, Beak Creek Hostel, Haines AK.
The ferry!
Lot's of days to fill in. Best to keep it short.
Decided to take the Marine Highway(the ferry) out of Alaska! Called them up to make the reservation because the web site is complete crap. Sent the same search into the engin three times. It gave me three different interaries ranging from 4 days @ $500 to 30 days @ $2,500.
The lady on the phone was nice. I asked when the next ferry leave from Homer to Bellingham was. She replied, "Let's see...well, there is one leaving in 3 hours....could you make that? Oh your in Fairbanks...you'll probably not make it then. The next ferry is Sep.29th"....
!?!?!
Seriously, apparently it catches lots of people off guard. The ferry from Homer only leaves once a month. Damn. Turns out the ferry from Haines leaves every Monday at 6pm. So I booked a ticket for me and my bike, and rode out of Fairbanks.
Took four days ride to get here. It rained some. Saw some glaciers. Met some of the coolest people so far on the trip. Seems the only motorcyclist left in AK are the hardcore ones(me NOT included!). In Wasilla at the Kawaski Powers ports shop(hate my new tinted but cool looking face shield), I was told about some dude who had just passed through attemping to get to Prudo bay, but was snowed out....
In Tok I met some guy riding for an organization trying to ban the use of cell phones while driving. He was going to Prudo bay....told him about the snow reports. He seemed prepared. Even had an extra tire with him on his awesomely modified KLR650.
Later that day I met the guy who was trying to get to Prudo bay. Mike. Met at border city and rode together for a day. In the pass from Destruction bay to Haines Junction there are a lot of frost heaves. I'd never ridden with anyone before, and despite knowing better, I was leading, and pushed my little blast harder than I should have to 'keep up' with Mike's triumph street triple. Well, I hit one bump really hard at 60+mph, and my back tire rubbed against the tie downs I'd been wrapping around the back seat to hold everything on the bike.....melted right through those puppies. My gerry can fell off, and nearly everything else. It was embarressing and hysterical at the same time:)
As it happened, besides the extra set of tie downs I had in case any of them broke on the road, I had a third awesome ratchet set I'd purchased in Fairbanks for the ferry(You have to bring your own tie downs for the ferry). We had that bike re-outfitted in about 20min. This was the 3rd 'set up' I'd gone through with strapping all my crap on the bike. But it was easily the best, and will probably not change it again.
Haines is beautiful. It was a long stretch sans gas. 160 miles or so. Used the full gerry can of gas. Scary! Rode through this cathedral of a high altitude valley. The clouds hanging around you. Like being in an airplane. Epic to the point of being spiritual. The journal entry was rather sappy, but for friends and family, I'd be more than happy to indulge face to face.
Nice to be staying at a hostel. Even though there was parking down near the proprietor, I rode my bike right up to the cabin. Fuck it.
The ferry leaves at 6pm tomorrow. Will take 5 days and 4 nights...I think. Either that or it's 3 nights and 4 days. Eh. I can't remember. I'll loose some street cred for taking the ferry part of the way out(was 1,200 miles ride from Fairbanks to Haines!), but I'm told it's a 'once in a life time' sort of things. We'll see:)

Whoa. That's big.

August 22-24th 2009
Denali,
my buddy and I went down to Denali this weekend. That's a big mountain. We were blessed with clear skies leaving Fairbanks. We could see the peak from the city. That's 250miles away! That is really far to be seeing something That's twice the distance my childhood home was from NYC. And it wasn't that close to the city.
You can't take your car into the park, so they have buses to take the visitors all around. We attempted to take the bus out to Wonder Lake because the mountain was unusually clear. Perfectly clear, but only made it 60 of the 90miles in before we had to catch the last bus back our campground.
We saw some bears right up close. Freaking grizzlies. Those guys are strong. I watched as the cub causally dipped his paw into the hard packed earth as if it was chocolate pudding. Then he was pulling up roots 1/2inch think and tearing them as if they were cooker spaghetti. OMG. Those things are strong. I'd harbored a secrete disdain for bears through out the trip because of the inconvenience they'd cause me packing and unpacking my life everyday on the bike. Being super careful about food and contaminating anything else with sent. But now. After seeing them that close....I had a healthy amount of fear for the bastards. Pepper spray was not going to save you in an bear attack. Nothing would save you. Tip #6 Stay away from bears.
It was really cold that night. We got back to camp in the dark. Cooking was a pain in the ass. The stoves wouldn't light becase the fuel was frozen....the pasta wouldn't cook because the water couldn't get hot enough...etc. Eventually we went to sleep cold and unsatisfied. Which was fun too:) It was the first real miserable night of the trip so far. Our rapid decent into self pity over undercooked pasta was comical and lightened the mood.
Breakfast went slightly better:)

What is your position?

Wed. Aug.19th 2009
@ Fred Meyer eating a sandwich.
Dropped off the bike at the Harley Dealer. $100 an hour they charge for work! Man alive. What can you do huh?
The Helmet guy at the dealer looked at me and said, "You're a traveler right?" when asking my know edge of the locality. He was pointing me towards a motor sports shop on the outside of town where I might be able to find a new face shield to replace mine which was all scratched up.
The title struck a chord. I'm not a motorcyclist, or a scientist or explorer....I'm just a traveler. As if a body in motion is a perfectly acceptable thing to be...so common in fact that there is a name for these people. Travelers. It fit like a glove.
It's time to plan the escape route.
The locals frown when I tell them I want to ride out before winter. They expect the first snows in maybe a week or so, and full on winter in 3-6 weeks. I'd planned on spending some time here in Fairbanks, but Fireweed has gone to seed, and I've got to get out. My buddy gives me word that no one really expects I'll get out of here with the bike. Man. How do people even know I was coming?!
I always new it was going to be close coming here this late in the season. That was a decision made back in NY....back in June. But then the setbacks in San Fransisco, and Seattle, both taking longer than expected. Dispite the odds though, the risk paid off by making it here, alive, in one piece, and in perfect repair.
All I can think about now is getting back on the bike to ride across the U.S. I'm looking forward to that more than the entire rest of the trip. It's the only thing I ever expected or wanted on this journey. Not that I would/could trade this adventure for all the tea in china.....and I'm not expecting the lower 48 to compare to the Andes, Amazon, or the Northern Rockies(BC, Yukon, AK).
There is the great desire to see my country! I want to see with my own adult eyes this land which I plan to spend the rest of my life in! It's romantic and silly I know, but the idea has been the call to adventure. It got a hold of me, and there will be no peace till the conclusion!
I don't know. These are all big ideas for a little guy. I'll contend, from birth -> death that I will be the least unique person to grace this sweet earth. I don't have refined tastes, manors, speech or written word dispite a good upbringing. My personal endeavors to learn or gain new skills have proven time and time again how uniquely ordinary or average I am.
The line a body must cross to fight against one's nature or accept will always allude me.
At the end of the day, there will be no peace unless something is learned or created. Sleep has never come to be during daylight hours. There is always something which needs mending or making, or further study. And, when those are exhausted, there is one's precious family to love & waist time with:) Family is one of those for granted bonds that can withstand droughts and famine. But even the hardiest plants flourish with love and attention!
Ahh! It's not good to think too much. It get's a body into trouble.
My god I am enjoying this adventure. The inspiring people I meet. The unbelievable adventures and tales of brave ancestors and trail blazers on the Yukon and Alaska. Renewing old friendships, and changing old ones.
Searching for expectations or meaning in unexpected disappointments has been interesting also. On any other adventure there has never been time for that sort of reflection or to ponder "why".
Ha! Anyway! I've got an escape to plan!

Keep moving.

Tue. August 18th 2009
8:10pm. Sitting in my buddy's cabin here in Fainbanks. It's hard to believe the trip here is over! It took so much planning and care. Not that's I'm sorry. The ride up here was mind blowingly beautiful. When I get home I will write about the great wilderness here. It differs from the intensity of the Amazon. Lonely and Peaceful.
Quick note about yesterday. Probablly the best riding of the trip. Had a horrible realization in the morning. My back tire was not going to make it to FB before going bald...which was probably going to happen around Tok....so I hatched an idea. There was lots of tread left on the sides of the tires(can you see where this is going). So I rolled the bike back and forth across my lane getting it as leaned over as possible. White line to yellow line.....white to yellow. Almost instantly I realized how much fun it was! Why had I not thought of doing this sooner!??
It felt almost exactly like skiing when I learned how to parellel. Staying in the carve as long as possible, then slowly upright...and boom switch to the other side. Back and forth down the hill. It was exactly like that, only on a motorcycle, and I never reached the bottom of the hill. I got to ride those carves all day long! It was awesome! I probably looked like an idiot, but of the 6 other motor vehicals I saw that day, I couldn't care less:)
I love when you stop for a rest/snack and it's 40min...60min...no 70min sometimes before anyone passes you on the road. That meant for a moment in time, the closest human was 70miles away, if not further. It was fun.
Today was mostly in the rain after Delta Junction. Bearly any tiresaving swerving was possible. I rolled into Fairbanks on a breadth and a prayer. So Happy! Quick stop for gas proved I still had some tire tread! Thank god for the USA. As soon as I had crossed the border in to the US the roads became nice once more. None of that damned chip-slate crap. Well bearly any:)
The timing plate cover poped off somewhere today. Put some gorrilla tape over the large hole to keep water and other crap out. Other bikers seem super concerned about keeping thier bike SUPER clean....I like to clean it as mush as possible. But, it's more of a routine inspection sort of thing than pride of any kind.
The Harley Dealer had a dunlop tire in stock when I stoped by today to ask. Got an appointment tomorrow to have the thing mounted.
I know I just got here, but it's been getting colder EVERY day I was riding north. I think with in a week there will be the first snow of the season.
I've got the get the hell out of Fairbanks before winter. Super tired. New tires tomorrow. After that, it will be time to hatch an excape plan. I'd only ever planned on getting to FB. Never how to get out. Turns out this place is really really far away. Don't think I'd make it back through those passes again before winter hits them. Several days already I woke to see snow dangerously low on the mountians. Also it's been hovering +- freezing every night since Hope BC.
Here's to getting out of here with my bike!

I love RV folk.

Sunday, August 16th 2009
7:12pm. Haines Junction @ the Kluane Vally Inn.
$69.95 for a double room. They have a bar and restaurant. My room is at ground level which made me very happy. Always get self concious about staying at hotels on this trip. After you check in, get everything off the bike....the day ALWAYS seems to open up. The rain stops, the winds die down, and the sun comes out. Every single time.
Today was hard riding! Was only 50mi out from Johnson's crossing(corner?) to Whitehorse...had a tail wind...it was awesome. Even stopped at a Tim Hortons for lunch because I'd been tipped the chili combo was a good bargin(turned out to be true). It was an awesome morning ride. chilly, but just cruisin enjoying the sights and the overcast but not raining sky.
Gas, and back on the road. About 10miles out of town, the engine starts thumping pretty hard. I know what that means by this point. Quick look at the 'trees' and grass confirms it. Head wind.
About 30 sec later, I cross a small pass, and am BLASTED by a cross wind that that knocked me off the road into the pullout!(thank god it was there, as there arn't many). the wind the turns full bast 180 from my earlier tail wind into a crazy ass head wind/cross wind.
About 3o miles of the most difficult riding of the trip, I pulled over into a senic rest area. I know what this wind is. It's called a Vally Breeze. We'd learned about it in Paragliding school back in Grenoble. It's the hot air in the valley which travels to the highest point. Everyday. The same direction, extream weather excluding. I knew the wind would die down...eventually....maybe only when the sun started to set....but I simpily could not ride, and just had to wait it out.
Everybody who stoped asked me if I was alright, if I'd fallen or gotten hurt by the wind, which kept getting stronger and stronger. An awesome couple in an RV took extream pitty on me. They were brooklyn also. Invited me into the camper and fed me bagels and lox. They had cured the lox themselves from salmon they'd caught several days before! How cool is that?!?
About 6hours later, the wind was still not calmed down enough to ride in my opoinion...but I saw another motorcyclist rolling along, and I got brave. Also I was bored, and the thought of risking my life to get to Haines Junction seemed aceptable.
It was wreckless and stupid. It was all I could do to keep that bike upright against the gusts of wind. It was exausting, and phyically demanding. Some times the gusts were so hard that I bearly had the strength to counter steer against it. It was the hardest riding I've yet attempted....I promissed myself that I would NEVER do that again. If I had only waited two more hours, everything would have been calm!
Tonight I'm going to dump some weight to try and stretch the back tire. Books, 1/2 the gas(when I need it) The extra fuel...anything. I don't know if the tire will make it. There is still about 600miles left to ride. These roads have in 2200 miles nearly ridden my back tire bald.
Still have the other half of the Kluane Valley to ride tomorrow, so I need to be past it before noon, when the wind will stop me again.

Sugar Coating It.

Sat. August 15th 2009
9:45 pm @ Johnson's Crossing.
Made it pretty far today.
Maybe I'll make it to Fairbanks by Monday?
Left camp way late this morning. Didn't make it out till almost 9:30. I must have been the ONLY person in the camp grounds by that hour. It was embarrassing.
Had a crazy dream last night:
Was with my family, we were all swimming. The deep end which fell off quickly seemed nice, but no one wanted to join me. So in a fit, I decided that I could swim alone, and just tell them how awesome it was after. Found a cliff on the other side of the lake to jump off of. Must have been 50feet above the lake. I jumped, and as I was falling, I saw my father. He had this look of terror on his face...like he would never see me again. It was sad and full of fear not knowing what to do.
There was a pivitol moment where in the fall I could have steered towards the shallow end...but in a fit of recklessness dove straight into the deep end.
As I made it easily down to the bottom of the lake....I let some air out of my lungs, so I could stay down there and explore for a moment or two. Just as I was feeling the need to get some more air and accend....I noticed a current. It was slow but VERY strong. I looked back and saw what my father's fear was about. There was a huge underground river at the bottom of the lake!! I was sucked down instantly, plunged into absolute darkness. I was struggling to breath. This was it. I was going to die here. Alone. In the dark. I'd never see my family again. Mortal Terror.
I forced myself away.
Turns out, I had pushed myself way down to the bottom of the sleeping bag in my sleep, and was actually struggling for air.
"Man!" I thought. "That was a bit blunt. Wish my mind could have been less dramatic. Maybe sugar coated that a bit!"

One last thing. Been wearing my rain suit fairly constantly. I look like a moron. But damn that thing keeps all the wind out! It's been hovering around 45-60deg everyday. That thing was the best $89 dollars I've spent this trip!