Nuckleheads

Sun. Sept.27th 2009
Yesterday I participated in a "Poker Run". Found a flier for it at J&P Cyles which is right here near Anamosa where I've been staying with my sister and brother in law for a few days.
The ride befitted the United Way. It turned out to be a fantastic way to get a tour of the area that my sister and brother now call home.
The riding was beautiful. A little chilly, and threatening to rain at any moment...but it never did. Met some new friends. Initially I had just asked to ride along because I had no idea where any of this crap way, but they soon accepted me into their company. They embarrassed me in front of the entire festival at the end during the awards. The MC gave a shout out for the furthest traveled. "We've got a Texas, but the prize goes to NY". So I'm looking around for the dumb schmuck from NY who just got called out at this crazy event where everybody knows each other.....then I hear: "Anthony raise you had so we can see you..." Man. I can't go anywhere:)
Oh. There is a bar in Anamosa called Knuckleheads. I really wanted to go in there, but never had a chance. I heard there is a burnout right down the middle of the bar. Sounded like my kind of place!

Otumwa.

Tue. Sept.22 2009
Nothing particularly interesting happened today. I rode, was happy, and am now fed and ready for bed. Mostly I wanted to document sleeping in a place called Ottumwa.
It is getting chillier as I move east.....

Kill'n time.

Mon. Sept. 21st 2009
Omaha Nabraska, and my friend Tracy's house.
Road accross Nabraska in one day. 550mi. That's a new record for the trip. Was intending to leave Nabraska today, but had a late night, and subsequently a late start....and then it was raining...:) Eh. Fuck it. It's a vacation / adventure. Sometimes it's good to know when not to force things.
My back is flaring up again.
I've got two new tires waiting/ordered for me in Cedar Rapids Iowa. My sister lives out near there, and I was always planning on getting a new back tire....but upon inspection of the front tire, I decided that it would be good to change that one out also. It had worn down in a funny way, and have several deep gouges in it I had not noticed before! ahh! It did pretty good. 8,500 miles and only 3/4 worn down. wish I could get that out of the back one!
Nabraska is beautiful riding! riding from the west, you come out of the Black hills(which arn't any peticular color), and then into the protected grasslands, which are like a grass desert. After that the gentle hills begin, and the corn starts. Endless corn! By this time of year I'm told it's all feed corn, that sweet corn was harvested several weeks ago:(
Once the road traveled up about 30feet for an overpass. I swear you could see the entire state.
I had perfect cell phone coverage the entire time.
One more day here in Nabraska, I'll play with the kitten some more, and then go shopping for dinner. I love the gentle art of killing time!

Crazy Horse.

Sept. 17th 2009
Quick not about last night's lodging. In the middle of the night....I heard jackles or some sort of wild dogs on the cliff behind my campsite. Awesome I thought.
Then about 10min later, after what sounded like scurrying down the steep hill, I hear something(s) lurking outside my tent. OMG. Man. It was probably the most terrified I'd been the entire trip. A pack of wild fucking dogs, outside my tent. Awesome.
I layed there rather still for about an hour till it stopped, and the sounds retreated into the distance.
In morning, I learned that it was only the crazy wierd deer that are all over the place.
Accidently went to Mnt.Rushmoor today. I'd seen it before, and wasn't impressed then either. Crazy horse on the other hand is...well...crazy. Whoa! Check that thing out if you are in the area. It's a humbling experence to say the least.

Back tracking.

Wed. Sept. 16th 2009
Was on the road y 8am today. That's a personal best! It was incredible to ride like that. From dawn till dusk! Seeing and feeling the ride through the entire day like that is not something I'll soon forget. Very temped to get up early tomorrow and try the same thing.....
But, I might also stay at this KOA for another day and rest. I have an awesome view of the tower from my camp site. I'm not in a rush, I've got some business to do, and it's super nice here.... Can't decide tonight, and i don't really care.
About today. Took 14a. It was a mindblowingly beautiful ride. Across a huge dry vally, then up a gient mountian nearly 6,000 foot climb of steep grade(6%) over Baldmountian(not kidding) down on the most awesome twisties! What views coming down over the other side.
Also, the road was red. Sort of pink...but mostly a deep earthy red. Very strange. But I didn't care too much, as it was smooth and wonderfull to ride on!
Met a Lawer at a gas station who was riding a Harley "Road King". Since he didn't pick on my bike, I took his praise of the RK seriously.
Turns out Buells are manufactured in East Troy, that's sort of on the way home! I want to show them how cool thier bike is, and maybe get a tour of the plant! That would be so cool.
Sleep now. Think tomorrow.

The Beartooth!

Tuesday, Sept.15th 2009
5:45pm, someplace starting with an L Montana.
Beartooth pass beat me up today. Beautiful ride through Yellowstone, even if there were a lot of people. Also tons of elk and bison. Ug.
At this moment, I am the literal manifestation of 'not in a rush'.
After the Beartooth(BT), I stoped at a cafe for food. It had tons of motorcycles out front, so it was the obvious choice of culinary establishments. Ate lone wolf styles, but it was nice to be in like company just the same:) Tried to order the crocodile chicken fingers, but they were out.
After I got back on the bike, it was early yet, only noon or so.
There was several discussions on the road about the best way to get back to NY, if I was not going to go down to Utah and ride the 'once in a life time rides there".
Take 212 east through South Dekota, or take 312 south to catch ALT14.
In the end, I just did what I normally do when in doupt. Follow the bikers. They all went 14a. Problem solved. Anyway. I'm camping for the night. Super tired tonight. Pushed it kind of hard. 12 hours or so of riding. It's early, but it would have been stupid to ride anymore today.

Headwind.

Mon. Sept.14th 2009
9:00pm Eagle Creek National Forrest Campground(just outside yellowstone, which was full)
Road to the Sun. Eh. Too many people for my tastes. It was fun to be riding around with so many other bikers though. I was one of few with a full face helmet, and the only one wearing full protective riding gear. You had to wait all the time because there was tons of construction. But that was alright. I called them micro picnicks! It was an awesome excuse to stop the bike and look around for 5-20min. Don't think everybody else was having as much fun.
A few times other bikers wanted to talk, but I didn't want to take my earplugs out, so we resorted to yelling and hand gestures:)
The ride through Montana was stunning! As beautiful as anything I've seen so far! If you ever have the chance, take 89 south from Glacier to Yellowstone. Big long stretches of nothing. No cops. Huge fun sweepers. It's a dream riding out there.
Had a headwind all day. Actually since leaving Seattle. The buell blast is pretty underpowered for it's class I'm coming to realize. The bike THUMPS under a headwind. For days and days now, if there is a head wind, it's basically guaranteed I'm not riding faster than 60mph.
When I get east, I wonder how I'm going to be able to get on the interstates. The map makes it look like taking county and state routes is going to be a pain(there are soooo many of them!).
Also camping in the wind is a big drag. This evening the wind ramped up to about 40mph. I had to use every tiedown and stake to keep my poor little tent from flying away. Can't imagine what it's going to be like crossing Nabraska and Wyoming! Camping will be tricky:)

Something painful.

Sun. Sept.13th 2009

So there is one thing I hate about traveling. It's something that I've been aware of, and know I'm going to have to deal with every time I leave the house on any sort of adventure.
You make these super quick crazy friendships on the road. People you meet at gas stations, in museums, on trains etc. Fellow travelers, locals...all sorts of folks. Just as quickly as you make a new friend, you are ripped apart forever.
As I was taking advantage of a new campsite here in Glacier yesterday, my friend Ted from last night, who gave me a beer and firewood fired up his bike and roared away. Then I realized he had broken down camp already....that he was leaving...from where I was he would not see my new camp site....of any evidence that I was still there. Sure enough, he gave a glance and headed out of the camp.
It was crazy. Who was this guy? Why should I care? We had swapped stories of riding, drank a beer and sat around a fire. He was a stranger. Yet, as with all my quick friends, it was sad parting. I never thanked him for the wood, or the company, or the drink.
Till the day I die, it will break my heart a little every time I have to say good bye.
Spent the day hiking around glacier. Tomorrow I'll head off into the sunrise!

Come as you are, pay as you go.

Sat. Sept.12th 2009
8:00am @ Glacier National Park.
Super short ride yesterday. 220mi or so...if that:)
Pulled into Glacier Nation Park around 2:30 in the afternoon. My experience at NPs before has taught me to get there early. Most the camp sites go by noon.
Place threw me for a loop! Had a gate, and they charged $35 smackers to get in! To my amusement, motorcycles are only $12. Ha! I win again!
At the moment, I'm hanging around the campgrounds waiting to see if anybody leaves. When I pulled into the camp grounds last night there turned out to be two spots left, and a long line of cars behind me! So I took the first one I saw. Right next to the bath room. Ug.
Glacier is heartstopingly beautiful. I had only intended to camp here and keep on moving....but I can't imagine not spending a few days here! This choice was made at the expense of canceling my own coming home/birthday party. That's how awesome this place it.
Met another motorcyclist last night. Ted. He's riding a Softtail. Told me about another 'Must Ride' road. Beartooth pass...it's on the NE corner of Yellowstone or something. Damnit. I really kind of want to get home. Damn all these bikers and suggesting all these awesome motorcycling roads!
Tomorrow I'm bouncing Glacier via the "Journey to the Sun" road which is supposedly pretty spectacular. Judging by the rest of Glacier I've seen to far, I can't imagine anything less.

Riding sKills.

Sept.11th 2009
Had the closest call of the trip so far today. Was riding down a mountain road, being as alert as usual. A huge lumber truck was coming around a sharp turn in front of me. It passed with it's chain of frustrated drivers in tow, all wishing they could pass. As I approached the turn I suddenly realized I'd misread the speed indication sign way back there just before the truck obscured it from view. I thought it had read 35mph, meaning I could take it comfortably with a fun lean at 45. Well as I was right on top of the turn it turned out that the sign read 15mph! Ahh! I was going 3o miles to fast for what turned out to be a switchback! Fuck me!
I leaned the bike over as far as I could, but still went over into the oncoming lane, and over shoulder. I missed hitting the gravel/guardrail by about 6 inches. Thank god there was no one in the on coming lane!
Anyhoo. Still very much alive:)

Jesus would have been a biker.

Thurs. Sept.10th 2009
8:00pm, some park on the border of Washington and Idaho.
There is a beautiful river here.
Here is a quick summery of the days after the Ferry.
Said goodbye to all my motorcycle friends and Andrew who was my buddy on the boat.
Then off the Seattle. It was only 70mi, so it took no time whatsoever. Missed the exit for Joel's place, so I went out to the Harley dealer to see if my tire had come in. The Dunlop was a piece of crap. It was not going to make it home. No new tire.
Eastside Harley there who had put on my tires before I left was real excited when I returned. Actually, I had lied and told them i was going to NY, so they were suprised when I rolled in again. The managers of the dealership really got into the trip, and the fact that I'd gone up there on a Buell Blast. They took a video interview, and gave me a T-Shirt. That was cool, becuase I really needed a new shirt. Mine were pretty gross by then....maybe they smelled me and took pity? Ha!
In total though I was super embarrassed to be standing there at the dealer. There were some bad ass bikers there hanging out. And there I was in my Oshkashbigosh of motorcycle gears, sporting 'my first helmet' from HJC, and riding a bike that looked like it had just come from the war, completely shit rigged up with crap. Yup. I was feeling pretty awesome. But I had nothing else to do. So I just hung out with my coffee and shot the shit with the managers for a couple of hours:)
Next day(Saturday?) I rode down to Portland to try and get to the Museum of Stereo Art and Photography. But it was raining BUCKETS and it took me most of the day to get 100mi past the storm. Bummer.
This marked the first interstate riding I'd done the entire trip. It was really fatiguing! I could only go about 30-60min before I had to pull off and rest. Going 70-80mph is a whole nother ball of wax! Most of the trip so far has been sub 60mph.
Stayed at a hostel. Went to the Bluemoon bar for dinner and a beer. Had an awesome Black IPA. I swear it was real. And it was awesome! Looked like you were drinking a guinness, but it was a super bitter and light IPA. I could see why people like beer after drinking that.
Many people suggested Portland to be a cool city to check out. But when I got all packed up...and the bike was checked out, and I was all geared up...and the sun was soo nice, and the weather is just the way I like it, no wind and a little bit chilly.....well, shit to Portland, let's go for a ride! Booahahaha. Motorcycles are way more fun than stuffy old cities!
Tuesday, after getting my new tire on(Pirelli MT75 for those of you who would be interested:), back on the road! East!
Route 2 goes across the entire united states practically, so I took that one. Less thinking. At the best rest area ever(free brownies and coffee) another motorcyclist suggested that I take route 20 over to Glacier as a detour. Haven't been steered wrong by a biker yet so I took the road. Beautiful. Then 97north was closed, but another biker at a gas station had warned me already, so i knew to take 97alt. Apparently a bridge was out....tractor trailer in the river....eh. No idea.
And so it went on like that till arriving at Glacier Nation Park. Pretty roads, no plan, ride till I got tired and finding some place to camp and crash for the night. Food is pretty readily available down here in the lower 48 also, so it's been easy to cook for myself.
I get approached by older dudes a lot. Sometimes couples also. Well, first off, I've only seen two other younger guys(under 40ish) riding around, and that was in Canada. The old dudes are all so excited about the trip! They talk about their bikes they had when they were 'kids'. They talk about the bikes they didn't have for one reason or another:( Many who are retired complain that they waited. How they wish they had done what I was doing when they were younger and stronger and full of energy! Apparently the median age of people who vacation to Alaska, is 65. Whoa.
Oh one last thing. Pulled into this city park one evening because I was exhausted. Turned out to be a real red neck kind of place. My people:) But I came back to my tent to find some literature placed infront of the entrance flap. In bold letters it read: "Jesus would have been a biker." On the inside was filler with analogies between motorcycles and why Jesus died for our sins. I should have kept it, but I didn't want to egg who ever left it on. So I clearly and plainly threw it away. I wanted to get up and out early the next day:)

Is this going to hurt?

Sept.3rd 2009
Got a tour of the engine room today. I'd asked the purser about it yesterday. He was confused. Apparently nobody asks for a tour of the engine. He made me write a letter to the head engineer, and said he'd get back to me. I could not imagine how that was going to happen, and counted the whole thing off as a wash. Figured there was not harm in asking.
Well sure enough three days later, me and two other guys get caller over the loud speaker to come to the purser's desk. I had forgotten about the letter by then and assumed I was in trouble for any number of things:)
There we met the chief engineer and got a tour of the engine room!!! It was so amazing. Same idea as the combustion engines in our cars and motorcycles....only bigger....and with more toys. The other two guys where big tractor head, and the three of them spent the next hour or so throwing around so many terms I'd never even heard before. There is so much to learn in the world!
Anyhoo. Apparently it doesn't hurt to ask. It was a little embarrassing writing the love note with the grumpy purser standing there. In the end. Completely awesome!

My motorcycle and I are on a boat.

Wed. Sept. 2nd 2009
Marine Highway.
I'm riding on a boat with my motorcycle. This boat is filled up with the most incredible people I've ever met.
Dude1. Florida -> Fairbanks via Motorcycle.
Dude2. Kyak Inside Passage. Vancouver -> Homer AK.
Dude3. Drove to Valdeze and worked all summer, construction and bar tending...
A small sampling, but enough to illustrate the point. This has to be the most amazing group of intrepid explorers and idiots I've ever had the pleasure of spending several days with! If you ever get a chance to ride the marine highway, either direction. Do yourself a favor, and DO NOT book a cabin or estate room. There is plenty of room on the deck to pitch a tent, or hang out on the solarium. That's where all the cool kids are going to be.
There seems to be some commonality amongst this band of rebels. It's that nearly nobody is an expert at whatever adventure they set out on. This was the longest trip for nearly all the motorcyclists I met. The Kyak guy had never done anything like this before.(he had some amazing stories!) And right down the line, it was the same tale again and again. People sort of testing the limit of their pleasures and fortitude:)
I don't know. In the cozy bed back at home this journey was madness. Expensive. Dangerous. Irresponsible. On the road, it became hard to imagine anything being more natural to be doing with one's time.
With all the insecurities in this world, wealth, health may come and go with the tides. Health might render us incapable of the simplest tasks. But there is nothing that can rob a soul of these memories. I will hold them as long as I still know myself.
The endless valleys. The nameless mountains. The lakes that go on and on for 20, or 30 miles. The rivers that go god knows where(thank you Robert Service). The sun of mid-day which you are convinced will be there in the sky forever. The darkest hour before every single sundown when a body is the most alone. The endlessly cold nights. The toes that will 'never be warm again'. The fear of breaking down 100+ miles in the middle of nowhere. Surviving the rain. Knowing when to stop and rest. Trying to tell the difference between being brave and stupid.
I just have this idea, this suspicion. I'll wake up, back at home and think, "What the hell just happened? These are things other people do. Not little old me!"
Anyway. For a couple more day, we've all got the dolphins and whales to keep up company. A school of killers wales swam with the ship yesterday. They looked not large as in a zoo. But just the right size out here:)
I can't wait to get back on the bike again!!
Curious to see how it get's on. The only plan is to go east. Hit Nebraska to visit a friend, and maybe to Iowa to visit my sister. Hopefully still be able to get to North Carolina to visit my niece and nephew:)